3D Material continuation

3D Materials

Chicken wire

15/10/14

Once again we were in the 3D studio, and as part of using different materials so as to get used to them, this time we were using wire mesh, or chicken wire.

Safety when using wire mesh

As when using any forms of wire, goggles are necessary to reduce any risk of damage to the eyes. Goggles must be worn throughout the use of the wire and may only be removed once work on the wire has finished.
It is also important, especially when using wire such as this, to wear gloves. It is recommended to use Kevlar gloves.
As well as these, because the ends of the wire, being rather sharp, can cause small cuts when caught on exposed skin, you also have to wear sleeves made of a special material, so as to reduce the risks of injuries on exposed arms.
When cutting the wire, it is also important, when unravelling the wire from a role, to cut it so that the wire is facing downwards to the table. Strong cutters with leverage are best to cut this material

Once the safety was out of the way, we were then asked to create a head using the wire mesh so we could begin to get used to using the material, and, as we were later going to cover it with paper mache, we were told to wrap any sharp ends into the structure to avoid causing any injuries later on when covering it.

Once the head structure was complete, we then covered the tables in a layer of newspaper and then began to shred into strips some more newspaper. This would later be dipped in a mixture of PVA glue and water, which would solidify around the wire structure and hopefully bring out some of the features that aren't too visible without it.

Once the head was completely covered, it was then moved to dry, and the newspaper that had been used to cover the table was then put into the remaining mixture of water and PVA to create a pulp that we were going to cover our sculptures in at a later date.

The pulp had to be of a certain consistancy: Not to thin and sloppy but not too firm and dry, which was rather difficult to do,  however it soon became a lot easier to do. We had to make enough for 4 people to use, so adding more paper, water and glue was necessary, as was continuously mixing.

Finally, once we had enough for four, it was to be left to rest until we would next need it, so it was covered in cling-film for later use.

3D Experiment continuation: Mod Rock

Mod Rock

Casting a head

1/10/14

The same rules apply here as when casting something like a hand, however, the rules are more magnified when casting a head, as it is a lot more dangerous, since it requires covering a models head in the material.

When casting the head, clingfilm is used to stop the material from ripping out any hairs on the models face or head, however this in its self is a danger.

Rules when casting a head

The clingfilm, while a safety measure, is also a danger whilst creating a head cast, as it requires covering the models head with something that you had perhaps been previously told not to do. When covering the models head in clingfilm, it is important to keep communicating and to know that they are comfortable with the procedure. At any signs of discomfort, the cast and clingfilm need to be easily removable, which means that a full head cast in out of the question. As with the hand cast, it is only sensible to cast half of the head.

Strips of the modrock should always be cut before applying the clingfilm to ensure that the model is comfortable.

Applying the clingfilm

It is important that you do not start until consent is given by the model. The clingfilm, when applied, must be done in a specific order to ensure easy removal. First of all, a strip of the clingfilm must be place over the top of the head to the tip of the nose, it must then be wrapped around the models head however it must not be tied or clipped at the back. It must only be fastened to the other side of the clingfilm simply by putting on end over the other. Since the material should stick on its own accord. Next two strips, each down one side of the nose must be placed. It is important that the models mouth is covered last, and only when they are ready, that is if they are okay with their mouth being covered.

THE END OF THE NOSE MUST BE LEFT UNCOVERED TO ENSURE THAT THE MODEL CAN BREATHE. As well as this it is important to take note that the model isn't claustrophobic.

The clingfilm must also be pulled reasonably tight so as to ensure that no facial details are missed out.

Lastly, the clingfilm under the chin may sag a little, if this is the case, one strip of clingfilm may be placed under the chin and pulled up to stop this. Once this procedure is complete, you may begin covering the models face with Mod Rock.

My face cast

My model wasn't okay with their mouth being covered, and so the face mask isn;t as complete as it could be, however the finished mask did have a rather unique effect.

We started by covering the top of the models head, placing the strips horizontally and carefully, layering them up so that the cast was strong.

As the model didn't want their mouth covering, it made the task a little harder, however, it was eventually worked around.
The eyes of the model are always to be covered last, as when you eventually do cover the eyes, the model is then thrown into pitch darkness. 

IT IS IMPORTANT THAT YOU CONSTANTLY TALK TO YOUR MODEL AND ASK THEM IF THEY ARE OKAY FOR THEIR WELL-BEING. The model, whilst doing a task like this, is more important than your artwork.

As with the hand cast, to test if the material is set and dry, you must tap gently with the back of your nail, however, you must first inform the model that you are doing so.

When it comes to taking the cast off, the model must place their hands up to their face as if they are crying and slowly lean forwards. They must take the weight of the mask in their hands. It should come off straight away, if not, it may need opening a little at the back.

And, as with the hand cast, you can then develop it further if you so wish.

3D Experiment continuation

Mod Rock

3D

24/9/14

As part of my 3D studies, I have moved on to using Mod Rock, which, as with all materials used when making a 3D sculpture, requires care and consideration:

Safety when using Mod Rock

Mod rock is a material consisting of a bandage like material which is covered in a thin layer of plaster, this plaster, when dry can be dangerous if misused. To stay safe when using it, there are a few simple rules.
Some may be allergic to the plaster in Mod Rock, as so gloves must be worn if this is the case. Latex gloves, however are not recommendable, as many may also be allergic to these as well.
When cutting the Mod Rock into workable and sensible sized strips, care must be taken as the plaster dust from the dry Mod Rock can become a problem, therefore, when cutting the material, it must be done on a table, where it is away from the mouth or eyes, which reduces any risks considerably.
Mod Rock tends to be a material used for casting, and plaster, when drying, goes through a chemical reaction in which heat is produced and given off. While this isn't as much of a risk when using Mod Rock, it is a precautionary measure. Therefore, during casting, it is advisable not to put your hand into a bowl full of plaster, as the heat would cook it.
When dry, Mod Rock is extremely hard, therefore, when casting, it wouldn't be the best of idea's to cast completely around someones hand, for example, as the cast would not then come off.
Another measure taken is using clingfilm on any area's that are being cast, as without this, the Mod Rock, as well as causing any allergies to flare up, would also dry onto any small hairs on the area being casted, which, when removed would rip out all of the hairs that have dried into the plaster,

 Casting a hand

When casting a hand it is important that you do not cast all the way around it, otherwise it will inevitably end in having to get the cast cut off, therefore casting only half of the hand at one time is suitable.

To assure that the cast didn't stick to and rip out any hairs on the hand and arm, gloves were to be worn by the model. Before doing anything further, the Mod Rock then had to be cut into usable lengths carefully.

Once this is done, you can then begin on the cast. A bucket of water is required nearby so that you can soak the strips of Mod Rock, it needs to be kept away from the material, however, to avoid getting the dry strips damp, therefore making them unusable.
Applying carefully onto the covered area of the model, you lay the strips across the hand longways so that the cast will be stronger, you then smooth the plaster over the bandage like material so as to fill any holes, which will ultimately strengthen the cast.

 Mod Rock dries and sets reasonably quickly, however, care must be taken whilst creating a cast, and the workspace must be kept as clean as possible during the process to avoid any issues.
Only half of the hand at one time must be cast so that no situations arise in which you cannot get the cast off when completed.

To test if the Mod Rock is set when the cast is complete, you tap gently using the back of your nail and listen, you can usually tell if the Mod Rock is set, the sound and the stiffness of the cast will tell you this. If the cast is stiff and remains in the position you casted in while the model moves their hand then it's ready.

The finished cast, while not entirely accurate and a slightly odd shape depending on the number of layers used to create it, should be sturdy and workable, and will then allow you to develop it if you so wish.

Tone perspective

Tone perspective

Using Charcoal and chalk

After re-capping 1, 2 ad 3 point perspective, I then moved on to looking at perspective through tone using shapes, rather than a cityscape setting. I chose to layer semi-circles to create my image

Using the charcoal, I highlighted each different circle, and using white chalk, I blended the charcoal in to get a lighter shade with each new layer, eventually I decided to make something of what would be a group of random semi-circles at the bottom of the page into a rose, I then added a little coloir to brighten it up

I didn;t, however, want to colour to dominate the original drawing, and so only added a little colour around the image and small lines of colour to break up the blacks and greys.

1,2 and 3 point perspective

1, 2 and 3 Point Perspective

Practice is necessary when it comes to drawing, which is exactly why I have been revising 1, 2 and 3 point perspective in  simple manner. While it is all relatively new to me, the recap still helped  lot

While I rather enjoyed all of hem, I find 3 point perspective to be particularly fun to do, as it then allows me to use shading and details to bring to life the image and to show the foreground and backgrounds. 3 point perspective on a vertical, while more challenging is just as fin to do, in my opinion.

Experimenting with materials

3D

10/09/14

As part of my studies in college, I am experimenting with different materials that would enable me to create 3D objects. So face I have tested clay, moulding it into a small ‘portrait’ of someone opposite me.

Safety when using clay

 

Safety when using clay

When using materials, such as clay, certain measurements must be put in place so as to make it safe while using it. In the case of this material, obvious measurements, such as ‘Do not eat’ are in place, as well as ‘Do not throw or put in eyes’ and so forth. As well as this, it is imperative to clean hands and surfaces that have touched the material, as when it dries, it creates a lot of dust, which, when inhaled can cause Silicosis, a lung fibrosis, due to the high levels of silica within the material.

My model

Evaluatiom

As it was one of my first times using this material to create something more than an object of 2D value, I found it rather difficult to come to grips with. However, after a while I had finally managed to get used to the texture and stiffness of the material. I was able to mould the clay into the general shape of the head and shoulders, then begin to develop it by contouring and using a wire to add finer details, such as eyes. While it does not look like the person I was doing the portrait of, I am still rather impressed by the result.

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17/09/14

 

Safety when using wire

 

As with using clay, measures need to be put into place so that it is safe when using this material. Using wire requires cutting it, and when cut, the wire can often spring up and become a danger. Goggles must be worn so as to prevent any damage to the eyes. Also, when working with the wire, it can be rather sharp, so in some cases, gloves must be worn to protect hands from damage.

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Wire has a negative space, so for this lesson, we were to make something with negative space into something that had a positive space. This meant twisting the wire into an automatic shape that was 3D, and that could be later developed.



Model (Part 1)

Once we had moved the wire into an Automatic shape, we were asked to use tissue paper to fill in some of the sculpture paper, thus creating a positive space. I, however, didn’t have enough space on my model to create a positive space, and so had to add to it in order to continue.

Model (Part 2)



After adding a little more wire, I could then begin to fill in some of the sculpture with tissue paper top create the positive space, While messy, the completed sculpture was a mixture of both negative and positive space.

Combining wire and clay

 



After experimenting with wire and tissue paper to create a possitive space out of a negative space, we then moved on to combining wire with clay to create a small model. The wire would be used as a skeketon and the clay to build up and develop into a small model of a person.

The idea of this was to create a possitive space by using a material with a large negative space.
While my wire skeleton didn't resemble much of a person, once I began to develop wit using clay it eventually came together. However, I had to remove the two wire hoops I had created for the head as they were to big and weighed down the model.

Once I had finished it I added minimal detail and decorations, however, the weight of the head of the model was still too heavy for the spine to sopport, and so I had to use a little of the wire to support the head to keep the model upright so that it didn't fall over and snap.